The modern history of the Pacific Northwest is a relatively short one. 200 years ago, Native American tribes pretty much had the area to themselves. 150 years ago, Oregon and Washington hadn't even joined the United States (Oregon joined in 1859 and Washington followed in1889). 100 years ago, both states remained heavily forested and sparsely populated. It has really only been in the last 50 years that the area has transitioned into one of the most dynamic and exciting regions in the United States.
The influence of the Northwest on American culture in the last decade is especially undeniable. Whether you're listening to the legacy of grunge rock or sippin’ on your Starbucks grande decaf caramel macchiato, you feel the region's presence. Their most beneficial cultural export, however, could be their lifestyle. In Oregon and Washington, you cannot talk with a resident for long before the phrase “quality of life” makes its way into the conversation. This is not the home of hyper-driven, hyper-tan, hyper-fake dealmakers. This is the home of people who don’t necessarily think that newer, faster and more is necessarily better. They feel more at home among towering trees than towering office buildings.
This attitude is very much reflected in the culinary soul of the region. There is an appreciation for freshness here that borders on obsession, where fish or produce that is even hours old can be regarded with suspicion. There is also a tendency to prefer dishes that focus on a few perfect ingredients instead of layers of spices and sauce. Food and wine are taken very seriously and local ingredients and dishes are often regarded with a fierce local pride. Make no mistake about it, in any given town throughout Washington or Oregon, whatever apple, berry, cheese, fish, vegetable or wine that is produced, local pride and quality are hallmarks of the Pacific Northwest.
Regional Cuisine
There is very little argument about the Pacific Northwest's diversity and quality of food, wine and culture. There is, however, a great disagreement about whether the foodstuffs being prepared in this area constitute an actual “regional cuisine.” A standard definition of a regional cuisine would be “a coherent tradition of food preparation that rises from the daily lives and kitchens of a people over an extended period of time.” It is the idea of "an extended period of time" that is the key problem. Whatever unique culinary movements that are happening in the area, they are probably still too recent to constitute the existence of a true regional cuisine. Only time will tell whether the creativity and diversity of cuisine in the Pacific Northwest will continue to be built from the bottom-up in the kitchens of average people or simply end up as the limited domain of a small collection of top chefs.
The one set of local culinary traditions that qualifies, without doubt, for being a true regional cuisine is that of the local Native American populations. For centuries native tribes such as the Chinook, Skagit, Lummi, Tlingit and Salish (along with the many other tribes of the region), have been eating from the plentiful bounty of this land. Centuries before Europeans ever discovered the North American continent these groups were living and experimenting with the local fish, game, fruits, vegetables and berries in ways that arose from the experiences in their daily lives.
The cuisine they developed took advantage of a wide range of baking, steaming and boiling techniques. Instead of using pots and pans they steamed game and fish inside of grasses and leaves. They used flat hot rocks to cook fish and cedar planks to grill foods and infuse them with flavor. They dropped red-hot rocks into water-filled whicker baskets to boil herbs, tubers and fruits. They cooked with whale and fish oil in the same way that we use olive oil and butter. Their cuisine is fascinating, unique and delicious.
It is no great surprise then that the development of a modern Pacific Northwest cuisine would draw many influences from these native sources. Chefs such as Kerry Sear of Cascadia restaurant in Seattle have found great inspiration from native cuisine for the creation of dishes such as "Wild Grass and Herb-Baked Partridge With Blackberry Reduction". Also, some Native American chefs such as Loretta Barrett Oden (Corn Dance Café in Santa Fe, N.M.) have drawn on their indigenous heritage for the creation of such dishes as “Tlingit Salmon with Rosehip Sauce and Smoked Oyster Potato Cakes.”
Modern Pacific Northwest Cuisine
Oysters
Starting with Native American tribes, oysters have had a place on the dinner tables of the Northwest coast for thousands of years. Although there are many species grown in the bays and inlets of the Pacific coast today, the only native species is the Olympia Oyster (Ostrea lurida), a small mild flavored oyster with a slightly metallic aftertaste. This oyster was a favorite with Settlers through the late 1800’s and into the first few decades of the 19th century, but over harvesting and pollution nearly wiped out the population for good. The oyster industry, particularly the premium half-shell industry, didn’t start to recover until the mid-1980’s when a new generation of aquaculturists and more stringent environmental laws paved the way for a massive resurgence in the local production of world-quality oysters.
Today, non-native species dominate oyster production. The top three oysters on the production list are the Pacific Oyster (Crassosterea lurida), Kumamoto “Kumo” Oyster (Crassostrea sikamea) and European Flat Oyster (Ostrea edulis). You will not commonly see these names on menus, however, because oysters are most frequently listed by their point of origin. Much like wine grapes, small local variations in the environment can greatly influence the flavor and quality of oysters. Names such as Willapa Bay, Westcott Bay, Umpqua, Yaquina Bay and Quilcenes reflect both the location that the oysters were raised as well as a range of flavors and textures that are associated with that place.
Salmon
Salmon is probably the single most ubiquitous ingredient of the Pacific Northwest. It has been the staple food for Native Americans, early French fur traders, European settlers and modern residents. It is served baked, broiled, boiled, fried, poached, grilled, pickled, smoked, canned and eaten raw. It can be served with lemon shallot butter, mint pesto, peach chutney, cilantro sour cream, teriyaki glaze, coconut milk, ginger crust, Molasses and Mustard, Jack Daniels Cream sauce, blackberry reduction, olive oil and garlic, Texas bar-b-que sauce, Szechuan spices and in many, many other forms.
There are 4 main species of native salmon. The Chinook or King salmon has solid, dark red flesh with a high oil content that makes it good for barbecuing. The Silver or Coho salmon is smaller and leaner with rose-colored meat that is perfect for baking. Sockeye salmon are a deep red color and are the preferred salmon for canning and lox. Finally, the Chum salmon is the least regarded of the salmon species, but are well suited to smoking. This diversity of species combined with seasonal and regional variation guarantee that local chefs always have a wide range of options at their disposal to prepare this most flexible of foods.
Fruit
About 1/3 of the apples in American grocery stores are from the Pacific Northwest. This is in addition to 160,000 tons of Bartlett Pears, 34,000 tons of sweet Cherries and a cornucopia of prunes, plums, grapes, apricots, peaches, figs and quince. Even after much of the fruit is exported from the region, local U-Picks and wild varieties make even the best fruit easily and cheaply available. With such a seasonal diversity to draw from it is no wonder that fresh fruit turns up in local dishes as appetizers, soups, desserts, sauces, garnishes, chutneys, and even eau-de-vie.
Apple cider is an example of the diversity of uses that are found for even a single, simple product. Drunk fresh, and often straight from the press, apple cider here is sweet, tangy and delicious (good for you too). However, its uses go beyond being a simple beverage. The juice is often reduced to syrup, then used as a braising liquid for game or a unique poaching alternative. Lamb Braised with Quince, Cinnamon and Apples is an excellent example of how cider can add a sweet and tangy contrast to rich Oregon lamb.
Berries
Oregon and Washington are blanketed with a nearly overwhelming supply of fresh berries. A few hours hike in almost any direction can yield a basket filled to capacity with Strawberries, Blueberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Loganberries, Gooseberries, Boysenberries, Marionberries, Tayberries, Huckleberries, Cranberries, or Lingonberries. 90% of the raspberries in America come from Oregon and Washington. These berries are often included as an interesting flavor counterpoint to a variety of meats and seafood. Most purists agree, however, that nothing beats the classic combination of fresh berries and cream.
The local berry harvest has also long been important to the social fabric of the area. Huckleberries are an important traditional staple for Native American tribes as a food, drink and deep-purple dye. First berry rituals have been preformed every year upon its arrival for longer than recorded history. Berry harvests also quickly became important to European settlers. They used yearly “Blackberry Parties” and “Strawberry Parties” to bring communities together and strengthen local ties.
WINE
With the exception of California, the great northwest offers the most diversity and promise for high-quality wine production in the United States. Oregon's modern winemaking history dates back to 1961, when Richard Sommer established Hillcrest Vineyards near Roseberg. Others followed, like David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards and Dick Erath of Knudsen-Erath Winery, who had decided California wasn't the place for their style of wine.
It was Lett's 1975 Pinot Noir that put Oregon on the map, but today pinot gris, riesling and chardonnay are quickly emerging as major forces behind the state's wine initiatives. The principle wine region in Oregon is the Willamette Valley, a 90-mile stretch of land just south of Portland. The region produces two-thirds of Oregon's wine, and most of the reputable producers reside there. The moderate maritime climate is especially suited to pinot noir, pinot gris and other varietals.
In 1969, when the wine boom was sweeping California, there were only two wineries in Washington State. Since then, however, the state has crept into second position (way behind California) as an American vinifera wine producer, but its reputation isn't far behind. The vast majority of wine here is varietal, with chardonnay, riesling and semillon the forerunners of the whites and cabernet sauvignon and merlot leading the pack for the reds.
One grape that Washington seems to have a monopoly on is Lemberger, which a few wineries produce very well.
The majority of Washington's vineyards are located east of the Cascades, where desert-dry soils and hot summers marry to produce near-perfect growing conditions. The major regions here include Yakima, Columbia Valley and Walla Walla. West of the Cascades, in the damp proximity of the Pacific Ocean, is Puget Sound. Overlooked by Seattle, the focus here is cooler-climate varietals, such as chardonnay and pinot noir.
Resources
Recommended Reading
(For the best prices check out Campusi.com)
Northwest Bounty: A Cookbook Celebrating the Extraordinary Foods of the Pacific Northwest
By Schuyler Ingle and Sharon Kramis
Wandering and Feasting: A Washington Cookbook
By Mary Houser Caditz
The Way We Ate: Kitchens of Pacific Northwest Settlers
By Jacqueline Williams
Cuisine of the Rain: Oregon's Extraordinary Foods and Recipes: From Lush Farm Foods to Regional Recipes
By Karen Brooks
Links
Oregon Blackberry and Raspberry Commission
http://www.oregon-berries.com/
Oregon Strawberry Commission
http://www.oregon-strawberries.org/
Wines of Oregon
http://oregonwine.org/
King Estate Winery
http://www.kingestate.com/
Taylor Shellfish Farms
http://www.taylorshellfish.com/taylor.html
